Silent Night, Holy Night

Tires crunched through the snow as the SUV inched along the deserted, unmaintained dirt road.  Slowly, tediously, it negotiated the frozen ruts, and when the road finally ended abruptly in a large semi-circular open area, inched gingerly into what appeared to be a parking space.

But appearances could be deceiving in this land, so far from the forced order of civilization where there was a place for everything, and everything in its place.  The steaming engine sighed and  clanked to a stop, and after a moment’s hesitation the doors opened, releasing two passengers into the snowy, empty and completely silent landscape.

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Mosaic at El Santuario de Chimayo

“Are you sure we’re in the right place?” my husband asked delicately, after a brief pause during which we took a collective moment to catch our breath and acclimate to the frigid air surrounding us. The cold wind, gentle yet insistent, was alive — creeping with icy tendrils into any unguarded crack or seam in our multiple layers of warm winter clothing. “I mean, I’m not saying you don’t know where we’re going, but there’s nobody else here ~ maybe we should keep driving  and see if there are any parked cars further up? Maybe that guy at Chimayo didn’t know what he was talking about.”

Earlier that day, we had stopped at El Santuario de Chimayo, a small Roman Catholic church in the Sangre de Cristo (‘Blood of Christ’) Mountains between Santa Fe and Taos, New Mexico. The ‘Santuario’, or shrine, built in the early 1800s, is known as the ‘Lourdes of the Americas’ because of various miracles reportedly connected to it and, more specifically, the sacred dirt found in a small hole in a little room off the sanctuary.

After filling a plastic baggie with sacred dirt and lingering for a good twenty minutes over the rows of crutches, casts and pictures covering almost every inch of the walls inside, we had accosted another tourist and asked him to take our photo in front of the Santuario.  During the friendly conversation that ensued, we mentioned that we were hoping to find a place to attend Christmas Eve mass that night in Taos, our next destination. Without hesitation, he excitedly exclaimed that we should attend Midnight Mass at Taos Pueblo.

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Snapshot of us in front of El Santuario de Chimayo

Taos Pueblo, traditionally known as ‘Tuah-tah’, is one of the 19 New Mexico Pueblos clustered along the banks of the Colorado River and the Rio Grande; villages of the modern Puebloan people who are believed to be descendants of the ancient Anasazi, a culture now more commonly referred to as the Ancestral Puebloans.  These peaceful farmers had never seen a European face until the Spanish descended upon their villages in 1540, forcing all of the inhabitants to convert to Catholicism.

Due to an ingenious adaptability (perhaps stemming from their peaceful nature) the Puebloan people adopted the forced religion while at the same time managing to retain most of their traditional ceremonies, opting to practice one ‘religion’ alongside the other in lieu of choosing between the two.  Despite the survival of the traditional ways, remnants of the Spanish conquest remain: today nearly 90% of the Puebloan people are practicing Catholics, and a Spanish mission still stands near the plaza at each and every Pueblo.

Taos Pueblo
Taos Pueblo

I was familiar with Taos Pueblo’s Christmas festivities and the various ceremonial dances that were open to the public each year, and knew of San Geronimo, the mission church at Taos Pueblo.  The chance to experience Midnight Mass at Taos Pueblo was an opportunity I was not going to pass up.  So here we were on Christmas Eve, just before midnight, in the middle of nowhere; and by the look of it, completely alone in this frozen New Mexico night.

“No,” I replied to my husband, “the guy at Chimayo knew what he was talking about and I know the church is over that way. We came all this way, let’s at least check it out.”

As we approached the Pueblo, one of the oldest continually-inhabited communities in the United States, I thought about how much life it had witnessed over ten centuries’ time.  I marveled that a village built while Europe was still entrenched in the Middle Ages had remained, intact, to this day.  In fact, remarkably little had changed here in the last thousand years; the people who called the Pueblo home still walked in the path of their ancestors each and every day and Taos Mountain, with its holy Blue Lake, watched perpetually over them from its home in the East.

San Geronimo Church Taos
San Geronimo Mission

I took my husband’s hand as we ducked through an opening in the low wall that surrounded the Pueblo and made our way towards the back of the little church, poised humbly on the edge of the plaza.  We crept around the side of the church, flecks of straw in the ancient caramel-colored adobe walls glinting eerily in the dark night.  Crunch, crunch, crunch…our heavy boots methodically covered ground but it was slow going with all the ice, snow and total darkness.

There is no electricity at Taos Pueblo, and the night possessed a mysterious depth I have not experienced anywhere else.  Tipping my head back, I was dazzled by millions of stars, so thick they were practically dripping from the sky in a mind-boggling three-dimensional display.  In the distance, sacred Taos Mountain stood guard over the pueblo; although it was too dark to see it, I could feel its  presence – brooding and silent – at home and alive in the inky darkness.

The church, San Geronimo Mission, was named after St. Jerome, the patron saint of Taos Pueblo, and was originally built by the Spanish in 1619.  Destroyed when the Puebloans rose up against the Spanish in the Pueblo Revolt of 1680, it was soon rebuilt on the same site – only to be destroyed once again in 1847 by the U.S. Army during the Mexican- American war.  In 1850 the present-day church was erected near the site of the old church, where it still stands.  Its freshly-whitewashed adobe walls a startling contrast to the hollow ruins of the old mission.  Tonight it stood in darkness reflecting only the dark night sky…cloaked in its thick mud walls, and seemingly unconcerned about the weary travelers outside.

Old Church at Taos
The old mission at Taos

We rounded the corner of the church and it was as if someone suddenly turned on the volume. The faint sound of muffled voices wafted from the front door, and as we approached a glowing light shone softly out, mingling with the scent of incense as it welcomed us, beckoning us closer.  We were ushered quietly into the church and it was as if we had been transported back in time.

The thick, musky-yet-pleasant smell of incense and smoke from the candles, their dim, flickering, golden light, the closeness of the people crowded shoulder to shoulder in the rough wooden pews, the smooth adobe walls that enclosed us – and above all the feeling of community sacredness – presented an air of mystery and timelessness.  It’s almost dreamlike in my memory.

Shuffling into the back row, we stood in humble regard through the short yet moving service.  The gentle chanting voice of the priest alternated with voices raised in song.  A feeling of enchantment permeated the small room, and I melded into my surroundings and became a part of the otherworldly atmosphere.  The quiet majesty of the scene before me, the beauty inside this small and unassuming mission church in the middle of an ancient Pueblo, was an unexpected treasure and I took it in with moist eyes and a thankful heart.

When the service ended, we left the church in silence, both lost in our own thoughts. As we stepped over the threshold and into the frigid dark night, the spell was broken and we were brought abruptly back into the present – to the stars and the snow and the sacred mountain before us.  Everything remained exactly as it had been before; as it had been for over a thousand years.

But something inside me had changed; I had been transfixed and transformed by the beautiful experience.  The stars glittered and winked knowingly in  the velvet sky as we silently made our way back to the car.

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Green Chile and Luminarias Day 2: Albuquerque

Christmas Eve Day dawned cold and crisp, and although our thin Phoenix blood had not yet adjusted to the 18-degree weather, we were enjoying the Christmas-y feeling so sadly denied us in the ‘Valley of the Sun’.

Before heading out of Albuquerque, we made a stop at the Indian Pueblo Cultural Center – a must if you have any interest in New Mexico’s Native American culture and history.

In a nutshell, there are 19 ‘Pueblos’ (Native American Pueblo villages) in New Mexico: Acoma (also called Sky City), Cochiti, Isleta, Jemez, Laguna, Nambe, Ohkay Owingeh (formerly San Juan), Picuris, Pojoaque, Sandia, San Felipe, San Ildefonso, Santa Ana, Santa Clara, Santo Domingo, Taos, Tesuque, Zia and Zuni.

These Pueblos were settled hundreds of years ago, but the exact details of their history vary depending on whom you ask.  Archaeologists claim they’re descendants of a Native American culture that has inhabited the area (as well as parts of Arizona and Colorado) for hundreds, maybe thousands, of years.  The Pueblo peoples’ beliefs about their origins differ a bit from archaeologists’ theories, a phenomenon fairly common throughout the Southwest.

Although this difference in points of view can be a point of contention, I felt it was addressed very well in the Center’s downstairs museum, where you can find artifacts and a timeline ranging from prehistoric times to the last few decades, and beautiful examples of each Pueblos’ unique pottery styles and designs.  You can find out more about the Cultural Center, the Pueblos, and Pueblo etiquette at www.indianpueblo.org.

Unfortunately, no pictures inside the Center, and although some of the displays (especially the examples of weaving and textiles) seem to encourage a hands-on experience, I was embarrassed to find out (a little too late) that there is a strict “don’t touch” policy!

I have to admit I’m glad I got to touch the beautiful woven fabrics before I found out I wasn’t supposed to; it was a really special experience to examine that closely the white leggings, white bridal blankets with four ‘corn’ tassels, one at each corner, and kachina kilts I had seen in countless historical pictures; it’s one thing to see a picture but entirely another to actually lay eyes upon the garments themselves. And most items in the Center date from the 1800s and early 1900s.

Before we left we had an early lunch at the Center’s Pueblo Harvest Cafe, which offered a variety of delectable Native and New Mexican selections.  I went for the posole; like New Mexico’s ubiquitous green chile stew, each bowl is a little different each place you order it, and sampling the many varieties will scintillate your taste buds.

Side note:  with posole, as opposed to green chile stew, there’s less of a chance that it will be too spicy to eat – something that has happened to me with many a bowl of green chile stew, as I try it nearly every place we go…a phenomenon my husband cites as a real-life demonstration of the often-stated definition of insanity: doing the same thing over and over and expecting different results…

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Green Chile and Luminarias Day 1: Dreamcatchers & Black Ice

Our yearly New Mexico Christmas road trip started out the way it usually does…among a flurry of texts, emails and phone calls from friends asking if we had heard about the Winter Storm Warning.  This year, along with the usual reports of a storm blowing through, came urgent warnings that portions of the I-40 to Albuquerque were closed.  Of course, as always, right along our planned route.

My immediate thought was that everyone must be mistaken; I had checked the weather report a full 10 days in advance for this very reason, and it had been nothing but sunny skies.  Where this freak storm came from, I don’t know but it seems scientifically impossible that a winter storm would blow in every year exactly the day we plan to do most of our driving.  I had a sick feeling in my stomach; after living in Phoenix for 17 years my confidence in my winter driving skills was right up there with my confidence in successfully landing a 747.  My husband was optomistic however, and convinced me to proceed as if the weather were not a concern.

Not a cloud in the sky as we departed the Phoenix area, and aside from some snow around Flagstaff it was clear sailing down I-40 all the way to the Arizona border. We stopped at one of the souvenir shops that dot the I-40 between Flagstaff and Gallup, all remnants of the old Route 66 days (and now mostly ignored by the more pressed-for-time interstate travelers).  Many of them have almost embarrassingly-outdated themes.

This one happened to be shaped like a huge…igloo?  Wikiup?  I am not sure what Native American dwelling they might have been going for, and the hodge-podge of symbols decorating the exterior – standard eagle feathers framed a window directly below a Zuni sun symbol (next to a rendering of petrified wood) – didn’t help the identification process.  On a side note, if this huge structure happens to escape your attention as you whiz by, don’t worry; there’s no way you’ll miss the biggest dreamcatcher you’ve ever laid eyes on, erected right out front!

Inside the Meteor City Trading Post were the usual kitschy offerings one expects to find in touristy establishments in this area; Arizona license plate keychains featuring your name, miniature Kachina dolls, geodes and other polished rocks…alongside some very nice genuine Native American handiwork.  But you have to know what’s what.

Fingering a beautiful wool blanket, I hesitantly asked the proprietress, “How much?”

“Seven ninety-five,” she answered.

“Seven hundred ninety-five?” I clarified.

“No, seven dollars ninety-five cents,” she assured me.

“Um, where was it made?”

“In India,” she replied somewhat sheepishly.  “But when people ask if it was made by Indians, I can say yes!”

Pretty tricky.  And I’m glad I did ask.  But it was nice, and how can you pass up that price, regardless of origin?  I bought it.

We continued on our way, anticipating any weather-related road trouble would come near Gallup and the border, but nada.  Still clear skies.  It got a little cloudy as we pushed east, but needless to say, the I-40 closures had miraculously opened  just hours before we passed through, and aside from some black-ice laden white-knuckled miles between Grants and Albuquerque we made it in one piece to our first-night’s destination.

Ah…New Mexico.  What is it about that state?  My husband and I have been making this journey at Christmas-time for the past six years.  What had started as a one-time trip to check out the many Pueblo villages in northern New Mexico turned into a yearly sojourn – and the amazing thing is we have still barely scratched the surface as far as things to see and do.  Aside from the Native American and Spanish heritage, New Mexico is known for its amazing natural hot springs, beautiful landscapes and especially its art.

This year, we had only a few days so tried to pack in as much as possible.  That first night in Albuquerque we ate at Sadie’s of New Mexico, known for its delicious New Mexican cuisine.  We had seen this little restaurant on an episode of Man vs. Food a few months back, and were especially looking forward to trying the famous stuffed sopaipillas.   After a few nervous minutes driving through a sketchy-looking area after exiting off the I-40, we found Sadie’s tucked away inauspiciously off the main strip, sign not even fully-lit.  Once we approached, our fears were put to rest – it was packed!

After being ushered almost immediately to an available table in the cozy bar area, we were treated to live jazz music in a softly-lit atmosphere, with a blazing Christmas tree in the corner and a huge fireplace filled with beautiful twinkling candles.  We loved the ambiance, but were blown away by the food.

I had the green chile stew (I try it every place we go in New Mexico – it’s always different), which was served with homemade flour tortillas for sopping up the spicy goodness.  My husband ordered the stuffed sopaipilla, which was about the size of a medium pizza!  Needless to say, we gorged ourselves and returned to our hotel satisfied, if not more than a little sleepy!

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